Day 12: Another Ferry, Another Castle, and a Magical Vineyard!

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Ann Silverthorn

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December 31st, 2025

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December 31st, 2025
Isle of Innisfree ferry

Here’s the 11th post sharing our adventures in the British Isles and Ireland from September 29 to October 17, 2025, for genealogy, business, and sightseeing. Hope you enjoy it!

Friday, October 10, 2025

Our wake-up time was 5:00 a.m. for 6:00 porterage and breakfast. I could get used to this porterage thing. We had to be on the bus by 7:00 to get to Rosslare Harbor for our four-hour ferry ride to Wales. 

Breakfast at the Waterford Marina hotel was great, and they had fresh fruit. Peeling an orange never felt so good! They still had the fancy coffee makers, but they also had an urn filled with plain, old coffee. How nice it was to pull the little lever and have coffee come right out without a computer involved. Ahh!

We boarded the Isle of Innisfree at around 8:00 a.m. and overheard John, our tour director, mentioning cabins available for a fee. We found out we could have one with a window for only 46 euros (around US$54). Sold.

I guess I expected something a little homier, but it was nice to have privacy and not have to use the public restrooms during the four-hour sail. The porthole was small and the frame was rusted, but the beds had nice, clean coverlets on them. The little bathroom even had soap and towels. We could have taken a shower!

The Isle of Innisfree was built in 1992 in Belgium and its history is mainly on the English Channel, which explains why all the outlets in our cabin needed European adapters. We only had adapters for Great Britain, so we had to use our power banks when the batteries on our devices went low.

One of my favorite poems is “The Lake Isle of Innisfree” by William Butler Yeats, who was related to the Irish Butler family mentioned in the previous post! I have always wanted a house on the water, and the one Yeats describes sounds perfect to me. Like him, I can hear waves lapping even when I’m in the city.
I guess I thought I would lounge
and gaze out the window for four hours.
Pretty much a one-person window.
And you have to stand to see out of it!
I was able to catch up on my journal at this little table.
Bathroom to the right and entry to hall beyond.
I really could be pretty comfortable in this room overnight.
From the porthole: That little red vehicle can move the trailers on and off the ship. Quite amazing.
From the porthole: Pretty lighthouse island. I might also like to live there.

Around lunchtime, we scouted around for food. Not wanting anything too heavy, we “just” got coffee and a box of four Dunkin doughnuts. After “lunch,” we walked around, went out on the deck, and then returned to our room until it was time to get back on our bus. 

All in all, it was a novelty to relax in that little cabin. I made some progress catching up on my journal entries that turned into these blog posts. It would have been nicer if I could gaze out at the sea while doing so. . . The best part was not having to use public bathrooms. Totally worth the expense!

Our two ferry experiences have made us curious about taking a cruise someday, which we said we would never do. Maybe a short one to the Caribbean to start.

After docking at Pembroke in Wales, we still had a two-hour drive to get to Cardiff, so that made about a seven-hour travel day. On this trip, we spent a lot of time on the bus, traveling many miles in just a little more than a week. But it was better than driving. Jim will tell you that!

And on the bus, we learned a lot. Here are some fun facts about Wales, according to John.

  • Welsh rugby fans like to sing at matches. John says it’s quite beautiful, because the voices are mainly male.
  • I noted that actors Antony Hopkins and Martin Sheen are from Wales. Martin Sheen? Haha. Glad I checked that. It’s actually Michael Sheen, social activist.
  • The Welsh language is Celtic in origin. It’s different from Gaelic; not spoken so much in Cardiff, but more in the north.
  • Land of My Fathers is the Welsh national anthem. On the bus, John played a video of men singing it. 
  • Cardiff, named capital of Wales in 1955, is a relatively young city, formed by the coal and iron industries. 
  • About 1.5 million people live in Cardiff, a multicultural city.

Cardiff Castle is main attraction of the city. It contains the keep, which is a stone fortress, and an opulent palace. 

The site is 2,000 years old, and the Romans built a fort there around 50 AD. Then, the Normans came along and built the keep that remains today. The castle passed through many noble families until the Bute family acquired it through marriage. 

The second Marquess of Bute turned the city of Cardiff into a major coal exporting port. His fortune passed to his son, who became one of the richest men in the world. 

The third Marquess worked with English architect, William Burgess, to build the palace. Eventually, after the death of the fourth Marquess of Bute in 1947, the family gifted the castle and most of the grounds to the city of Cardiff. It served as the home of the Royal Welsh College of Music and Drama until 1974, when it became a tourist attraction only.

We enjoyed the tour of the palace apartments, and it is difficult to imagine living there, but I’d love to try it out sometime!

This is the oldest part, a Norman keep. You can climb up the stairs, which crosses a moat, and then enter the tower. There’s nothing but empty space in the circle that these walls form, though. We did not have time for this if we wanted to take advantage of the palace apartment tour.
These slits at the palace were for defense, but I don’t think you could see much of what you’d be shooting at.
The detail and the craftsmanship of this ceiling is astounding.
This mural is one of many in the nursery, which depict figures from nursery rhymes. In this one, can you see the invisible prince? Look closely. His chin rests on the head of the bird. Then, you can make out his body.
Little Red Riding Hood
Above the nursery fireplace, this was a lesson to the children not to be too boastful. Note the gold horn on the left and the black one on the right.
This room is the oldest in the palace and represents the Bute family tree, which can be traced back to Robert the Bruce (1274-1329). Bruce was the king of Scotland.
A NATO summit was held in Cardiff in 2014, and the attendees had dinner at Cardiff Castle. See Obama?
King Charles came to Cardiff Palace after his late mother’s prayer service at Llandaff Cathedral.(with First Minister of Wales Mark Drakeford) September 16, 2022.
The library.
Something tells me not all the books are real
(but some of them are).
I’ll bet they can’t even give these encyclopedias away.

Well, we had to get back on the road for our vineyard dinner experience at Glyndŵr Vineyard, the oldest vineyard in Wales. Surprisingly, it was established in 1979, which isn’t that old, but the geography in Wales isn’t the best for vineyards. Still, the Norris family has been quite successful in their venture. 

The entrance to Glyndŵr. As the bus parked, I saw restaurant on a little triangle of land between two roads and thought that’s where we were dining. But after we got off the bus, we started down a lovely path to the venue.
A pleasant walk past fruit trees.
On the right are apples and a Google image search identified the yellow balls as part of a firethorn plant.
Gunnera manicata, commonly called giant rhubarb, is a large perennial plant from Brazil known for its enormous, prehistoric-looking leaves, which can reach several feet in size. Although it resembles rhubarb, it is not edible and is grown ornamentally, especially in bog or water gardens.
This is just one of the buildings we saw as we approached. There were alpacas we could pet along the way and then finally, we reached a cute little restaurant where we had the best meal of the trip!
Llazy Llama Welsh Cider. Just one of the many generous glasses of Glyndŵr offerings we enjoyed.

We were absolutely spoiled! The owners, Richard and Susan Norris, told us how they started a vineyard in a place not hospitable to grape growing and how they addressed the many challenges that came their way. We learned how they pivoted in bad years by, for example, learning to make brandy from apples. I admire their guts!

The dinner was delicious as were the various, plentiful wines they offered. What a nice evening! 

Tomorrow, Bath, Stonehenge, and back to London!

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